Two years ago (while scouting for the Cowboy Tough expedition race) I looked at this FKT route but didn't end up with enough time to try it. Oddly, we've driven through Teton National Park several times and had yet to get on the trails. Seems like a good time to change that.
The rangers told us that there is still a lot of snow up high - not surprising, given what we saw in the Beartooths - so they recommended bringing an ice axe. But not crampons or snowshoes. We're not used to carrying just an axe without foot traction, so we threw the microspikes in the pack anyway. John was accompanying me up to Static Pass since I wasn't so sure about the snowfield crossings, and he was more than happy to carry some things for me up the first big climb. Huge thank you to John!
I did some things to try to get up into Alaska Basin earlier in the day and hopefully avoid too-soft snow that might make travel more difficult in the afternoon: I started (and finished) the loop at Death Canyon trailhead, I went around the loop clockwise, and began the trek at first light.
We parked about a mile from the trailhead and walked up the dirt road. We weren't sure about the road condition for the truck, but it turned out to be just a bit potholed, nothing too bad, and John drove the truck (slowly) to the upper parking lot without issue later in the day to pick me up.
I think we're ready! It's great to have your company, John!
Trekking poles are ready for action again:
I should probably just stop moving for low-light pictures, otherwise this is what I get (on the rise up to the Phelps Lake overlook):
Wonderful quiet view of Phelps Lake:
A grouse! I think... He was pretty grumpy about our presence, even when I got out the camera (which is usually the signal for wildlife to disappear immediately). "Nope, ain't movin'" - OK, we'll go around you then. He gave us the evil eye as we worked our way around to continue up the trail. Cool!
I love sunrise on the mountains:
Lovely, lovely...
The creation of this trail looks like it was a bit of work, going up the canyon above the rushing creek; thank you to whoever put in all that effort:
"Aren't you supposed to be doing a "fastest" known time, not a "take a lot of photos" known time?"
yeah yeah
MOOSE!
We all stopped immediately and assessed one another. Would the moose decide to go a different direction? Nope, it's coming toward us, time to get out of its way.
We scrambled up the rocks and watched it jog by below us. How cool was that?
So cool, in fact, that it turned out to be a practice run for the large Daddy Moose that showed up a couple minutes later. We did NOT mess around, no picture taking, just climbing the rocks and getting as far out of the way as we could. He stopped and sniffed around to verify that we were there (giving me a chance to get sort-of a photo) before scooting past. Amazing!!
Well, this is quite a morning for wildlife sightings!
Reaching the turn-off at the cabin, about to do some for-real climbing up into the mountains:
Sunshine on the peaks above a beautiful valley full of waterfalls:
Gawking at the scenery:
More excellent trail up the side of the steep hill:
John on a switchback:
View to the east at the saddle below Albright:
And... the snow:
We started up the ridge on alternating snow and dirt as the trail switchbacked uphill. The sun had softened the snow enough so it wasn't icy, but it did take some time to find the trail a couple times in between the white patches.
A view worthy of all the climbing:
A couple times we were able to avoid the steeper snowfields, but this traverse was required. The ice axe helped a great deal, providing a solid handhold. It was great practice and I was happy to have John along to help with pointers and moral support.
It was easy to make good steps and remain balanced. So now we understand how it makes sense to carry just the axe (microspikes not required).
Excellent training, even if it did slow down my FKT time quite a bit. I was not going to be rushed through this part.
The bowl below Buck Mountain had plenty of snow, but once we got across a couple steeper patches it was all easier travel:
Just a bit of walking across the sun cups:
And one last little climb up to Static Pass where John would turn around:
Checking out the large snow-filled Alaska Basin:
It felt a little strange to part ways up here, but we needed to do different things for a while. No worries!
I set out to traverse some more easy snowfields and attempt to find the trail occasionally (partly successfully):
John's view of my snowfield crossing:
Such a beautiful place! We are so lucky to be able to do this and go here.
I gained my "snow feet" and eventually even did a bit of running on the gentle downhill sections, as the snow was in perfect condition for it.
At the other end of the basin I found the actual trail for more than a few feet, leading through wet meadows and over rocks. Looking back toward Static Pass:
Nice marmot:
The intersection with the trail that comes up from the valley:
Remarkably snow-free section around Sunset Lake:
Rock-hopping to cross the creek below the lake:
Well now, these are interesting prints. I had to think for a minute to recall the difference between canine and feline tracks, deciding they were probably a dog. A large dog, hopefully a domestic one...
The trail heading north... I thought it was aiming for the pass up ahead, but no, it veered around to the left. I got out the map to confirm, ah good, I'm still going the right way.
Can't get enough of this scenery! I suppose I figured that since it was already taking a lot of time to get this far, a couple more minutes of photo shooting doesn't change much.
Trail up the next climb:
Aptly-named Battleship Mountain:
I was a very happy hiker!
Coming back into Teton National Park:
With a spectacular view of Grand and Middle Teton to greet me:
Flashbacks to Hardrock -- high (well, not quite as high) and beautiful and a long distance between aid stations:
Looking down Cascade Canyon, so amazing:
There was a big and untrampled snowfield just below Hurricane Pass, also a well-used bypass through the rocks and dirt. I picked my way down the more popular route. I saw some hikers below, accompanied by a large Great Dane. Well good, that explains the tracks I've been following!
Making my way down the switchbacks:
I passed a few folks in here, backpackers going in both directions. One asked me if I was day hiking? Why yes sir, you could call it that. He told me, "you've come a long way already!" and I replied "how did you know?"
"Trail ends at Divide" - well, not exactly, but the sign made me smile:
One of many, many cascades, and I tried not to stop for a photo of every single one:
So beautiful:
OK, just one close-up:
I thought I might make up some time coming down the trail, but the footing was a bit technical and required care. I settled for "as efficient as possible" and kept moving.
Nice little creek crossing:
It was pretty loud in places:
What a fun day!
A quick turn at another overlook:
More mountain scenery as I approached the creek convergence:
Excellent bridge:
I'm not sure I noticed the cut-off tree when I took this photo of the trail:
The trail got more and more runnable, punctuated by short rocky sections near the creek and stops for a couple more photos. I started seeing plenty of other hikers coming up from Jenny Lake.
My first view of the lake today, approaching Inspiration Point:
This is a spot worth walking to (or running, or taking a shuttle boat):
Even if there is a crowd around:
Short bit of trail shared with quite a few people:
Just past Hidden Falls and the bridge over the creek, I found an intersection with a map and a sign pointing to Jenny Lake Trailhead to the right. I had thought that the lower trail along the lake might be a viable alternative but decided to stick with the known upper trail option since that was the obvious choice at that point. That turned out to be the right decision, as the south end of the lower trail has a barrier and "trail closed" sign.
Another climb it is, then. The upper trail rises a ways above the lake, can't argue with the views though:
I got a kick out of the idea of running with an ice axe strapped to my pack. I wondered how many people noticed it after I passed them. Overhead selfie:
I debated which way to go around the Moose Pond loop. The FKT route is drawn around the west side, but that's longer and doesn't seem strictly necessary. On the other hand, not knowing the trails, I couldn't be certain how easy it would be to quickly find the east side trail. Plus I'm a pretty big stickler about following the exact FKT route whenever possible.
So when I saw the first right turn to Moose Pond, I had to take it (even though I wavered at first). Here's proof that I was there :)
At the other end of the loop I popped out on the dirt road and jogged on down to the Lupine trailhead for a brief break. Hello again, John!
John helped me swap the important gear from the pack into a vest for the final 9 miles, fed me with Spiz, refilled my water, and told me a couple quick stories that I had to ask him to repeat later. I was a little warm, but clouds and shade were coming and I was ready to run "for real".
The excellent bridge on the way south from Lupine trailhead:
It's quite a climb up toward the next intersection, at least I didn't need to go up to Amphitheater Lake (maybe another time) and it was the biggest ascent remaining. I saw a few people coming down, including those with giant camping/climbing packs.
Running down toward the beautiful and quiet Bradley Lake:
The Tetons are spectacular from this side too:
Hello aspens!
Up and over another small rise to approach Taggart Lake - this spot wasn't so quiet. I could hear people making some kind of ruckus from at least a mile away.
I also scared up a little snake that slithered quickly off the path... well that's one animal that didn't want anything to do with me, anyway.
It does look serene. The loud group at the lake edge seemed like they might be there awhile - good thing I'm just passing through.
What the what what?? This had me stopped completely trying to figure it out. Not a bear, for sure, but not a squirrel either...
OK, who's bright idea? It was really funny once I got a better look at it!
Another few miles through the woods, calling "go bear go" occasionally to let the wildlife know I was coming through.
Dude, that's not what I meant by "go bear go"... OK, I'm not sure if this is bear scat, can anyone tell me?
The last couple miles were long and uneventful, trying to figure out how far I still had to go, trying to be patient. At least I was still running a decent percentage of the time. I had way misunderestimated how long this route would take me, but that didn't detract from the experience at all. Probably added to it, as I enjoyed so much of the day.
Finally - there's John! Hi John!
Marking "done" on the InReach:
Another "Female Known Time" and it was an excellent adventure!
My splits from Death Canyon trailhead:
Cabin = 1:30
Static Divide = 4:30
Hurricane Pass = 6:30
Lupine trailhead = 10:00
Finish = 12:40
FKT page for this route:
https://fastestknowntime.com/route/tetons-circumnavigation-wy
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